The NoMad Restaurant
Since moving to New York, I’ve enjoyed very few occasions where the food and experience matches up to the price tag. My recent trip to The NoMad was one such meal. This meal was long anticipated, as I’ve yearned to eat at the NoMad since first reading about it in the NY Times. My desire only heightened after reading Pete Wells’ full review (with accompanying photo slideshow) The days leading up to our dinner had been spent strategically analyzing the various menus… The restaurant is part of the hotel of the same name, which exudes an almost austere hipness, but without any pretensiousness or attitude. The restaurant’s ambience is fantastic, with a luxe décor and friendly, approachable service.
I had the great pleasure of dining with my parents who not only provide the best conversation, but also bring very different food standpoints to the (dinner) table. My father, an excellent cook, is a total gourmand, having grown up in India in a food-obsessed family. He has a very discerning and well-rounded palate in addition to a penchant for insanely rich foods like foie gras and all kinds of cheese. He’s willing to try absolutely anything, except for green salads. My mother is a pescatatarian and far more interested in a restaurant’s ambience than the food. She likes simple and clean Mediterranean flavors, but humors the rest of us by coming along. With these two trusty companions, I set sail.
(Apologies for the poor quality of many of the photographs…alas, the iPhone does have some shortcomings)
1. Cocktails—I’d heard the cocktails were excellent, and (like all the other menus) had perused extensively in advance. I ended up ordering a super-boozy cocktail, the name of which unfortunately escapes me…But: rye, grapefruit, other citrus….mmm. My dad got a sherry-based cocktail that had sweet vermouth in it. My mother, as per usual, had a glass of wine. (My dad engaged in a long conversation with two of the very knowledgeable and nice wine specialists about an obscure Lebanese wine. This is a great example of the service…)
2. I’d made the reservation before realizing that a family friend’s son worked at the NoMad. He very kindly sent out the seafood platter to us which included oysters with frozen champagne mignonette, sea urchin panna cotta, Hamachi with horseradish, creamy but flavorful lobster and perfectly flavored clams. The beauty of this dish was that the garnishes perfectly enhanced but didn’t detract from any of the fantastic flavors of the seafood.
3. Since hearing about the NoMad, I’ve been intrigued by the butter dipped radishes. Dipped in salt, they were perfect—crunchy, fresh and indulgent.
4. Sadly, this photograph doesn’t do either of the dishes justice. The bread, which arrived nice and hot (as all bread should be), was served whole for us to slice. Foccaccia-style, it was stuffed with potato, onions and caraway and was perfectly chewy and crispy. The flavors perfectly complemented the rest of the meal without being too strong. We also had cauliflower with Marcona almonds, grapes and cheddar. My dad pointed out, rightly so, that although the flavors were all really great, but somehow it didn’t feel cohesive.
5. The Chicken. To give you an idea, check this out:
The bird came out to greet us; festooned with fresh herbs and sitting in the perfect sized cast iron, its skin the color of a perfect Tarte Tatin. The aroma of truffle was intoxicating. After it returned, fully carved, we encountered an unparalleled level of moistness, and a deep rich savoriness. Uncovering the crisp skin we found the layer of stuffing, the melted foie gras and truffle had seeped into the brioche, creating perhaps the most flavorful breadcrumb of all time. It was served simply—the lentils were aromatic and well cooked, and the Brussels sprouts clean and refreshing—providing an ideal textural note to both the creamy lentils and tender chicken. The side dish of shallots, morel mushrooms and dark meat was indulgent and very delicious. I could only really eat a bite due to the immense richness, but my dad heartily dug in. While initially the portion looked smallish, my father and I both had to wave the white flag three-quarters of the way through, neither of us used to giving up. My mum got the Black Bass which was slow-cooked with matsutake mushrooms and spinach. It was moist and buttery, brightened up by the accompaniments. Although not a foodie, she was thrilled.
6. I only have a photograph of one of the two desserts we ordered. This, the Milk & Honey was an ingenious representation of these two flavors. The crunchy honey-flavored shortbread had the consistency of a crumbly buttery graham cracker—a perfect foil to the dehydrated milk puffs. All of this was tied together with quenelles of impossibly creamy milky ice cream and drizzled honey-caramel on top. Unsurprisingly, I’m still thinking about it. We also ordered a terrific chocolate caramel tart with hazelnut and fleur de sel. The accompanying chocolate sorbet possessed a richness you’d be hard pressed to find in most chocolate ice creams.
7. While my photo of the mignardises in no way does it justice, they were all very nice. There were smoky tea flavored truffles, caramel apple macarons and….well, that’s all I remember-it was a long meal lubricated with plenty of wine and that extra-boozy cocktail.
We had the great fortune of receiving a tour of the entire restaurant including the kitchen. It’s a beautifully curated place—each room with a different purpose and an identity to match, but all in perfect harmony.
I plan to return as soon as my arteries forgive me for the amount of butter and foie gras they are currently encountering…